Aloha,

As regular readers of Ipu Ki know, the United States has a long history of laws, regulations and taxes relating to alcohol. One very important one is the Federal government's Standards of Identity. This is a large set of rules intended to protect consumers by regulating the way products are labelled and advertised.

Generally we are big fans of these Standards in the Virtual Islands. They ensure consistent rules for how the age, volume and proof of the spirits we love are described on the bottle label. They define what is "bourbon" or "brandy"... and what is not. But like many regulations this can have unintended consequences.

But first, let's look at the definition of rum according to the United States Code, Title 27, Chapter 1, Subchapter A, Part 5, Subpart C, Section 5.22: “Rum” is an alcoholic distillate from the fermented juice of sugar cane, sugar cane syrup, sugar cane molasses, or other sugar cane by-products, produced at less than 190° proof in such manner that the distillate possesses the taste, aroma and characteristics generally attributed to rum, and bottled at not less than 80° proof; and also includes mixtures solely of such distillates. (Rum liqueur and flavored rum are also defined.)

Sounds pretty reasonable, right? This covers all types of rum including rhum agricole which is made from pressed sugar cane juice. Some products have to be labelled differently in the United States to comply with these regulations, for example Mount Gay Sugar Cane Brandy is sold in the United States as "Sugar Cane Rum." (The Moai like it by any name.)

That brings us to Cachaça (kah-SHAH-sah), the main ingredient in a Brazilian Caipirinha cocktail, which is also distilled from fermented sugar cane juice. But normally it is bottled immediately and is not aged in barrels like rum. Most rum aficionados will agree that cachaça is not rum but in the United States it has to be sold as Brazilian rum. This can lead to people buying cachaça expecting rum and well, not getting rum.

Brazil is not happy about this for a number of reasons and is campaigning to have cachaça seen as a unique, national spirit like cognac, bourbon or tequila. Last month at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans a Declaration proclaiming the true heritage of cachaça was signed by a galaxy of professional bartenders and is now being circulated as a petition. (The distributor of Leblon Cachaça is actively promoting the effort and sponsored a Caipirinha competition at Tales of the Cocktail.)

If you have not tried a Caipirinha before, the Moai encourage you to pick up some cachaça (look in the rum aisle for brands like Leblon, Boca Loca and Pitú), get out the muddler, and try one. Then do some experimenting in your home bar. Like her cousin, Rum, Cachaça is a very flexible spirit for cocktails and you can use it in a variety of ways.

Keep the torches burning,

—Tagata Maori Rogorogo